Quick step-by-step tutorial on how to fit and peen bolsters onto your handmade knives.

Step 1:   Mark off the bolsters slightly bigger than needed and cut them out.

Step 2:   Flatten the insides (Blade side) of the bolster.

Step 3:   Decide if you are going to make the back of the bolster square or dovetailed (Sketch 1). Please note that if you decide to do a dovetail, the back of the bolster needs to be slightly longer. This is important to ensure that when you peen the rivets, the back of the bolster dose not bulge out (Sketch 2).

I always ensure that the closest edge of the back of the bolster is at least 4.8mm from the back of the rivet. Also note that I use 3,2mm rivets. If you rivets are thinner, you can reduce this distance.

Step 5:   After drilling all the holes, remove the bolster, countersink the hole on the blade side of the bolster and make sure it is still flat.

Step 6:   Now place the 2 bolsters together, ensuring that the back sides are perfectly aligned and then clamp the bolsters together with locking pliers. Now with the first bolster as your drill guide, repeat the previous 2 steps. Remember to put the pins in the holes as you go along.

Step 7:   Fit the bolsters on the blade, one at a time and mark off the outside of the blade onto the bolsters with a scribe (Sketch 4). Remove the bolsters and mark the front edge of the bolsters. Remember that the same principle applies as with the back of the bolster. Leave about 4mm between the front and the rivets.

Step 8:   Cut or grind the bolsters as close to the scribed lines as possible. Grind the front of at least 1of the bolsters up to the line. Now fit the 2 bolsters together with the pins in place and clamp them with locking pliers or a G-clamp.

Step 9:   Grind and polish the front faces of the bolsters. This is the final finish on the front of the bolster.

Step 10: To ensure that the rivets are secure after riveting, you need to taper the holes in the bolsters. When you hammer the rivets in, they will fill the tapered area and make a secure fitting. For this you can purchase a taper reamer, or make one from a diesel injector pin. If you go to your local diesel workshop they should have some old pins lying around. These pins are handy for scribes and centre punches as well. I grind 4 flat tapered edges onto the pin (Sketch 5).

Put your reamer into your drill press and ream the holes. Make sure you do not increase the size of the hole where it fits against the blade (Sketch 6).

Step 11: Now for final fitment. Make sure the inside of the bolsters are perfectly flat. Fit them onto the blade, with the rivets cut so that they stick out about 2mm (for a 3,2mm rivet) on each side of the bolster.

Step 12: Place on a sturdy anvil and hammer the back rivets in, alternating the sides, until you can see that bolster starting to bulge around the rivet. Now grind the bolsters taper, so that they taper towards the blade (Sketch 7). Then peen the front rivets in the same way as the back ones. I use the flat side of an 800g pall peen hammer.

Once all the rivets are set, give them all a couple of good blows with the hammer to make sure they are secure.

Note: Make sure that you use rivet pin material that will blend in with the bolster material. If you are using Brass or Bronze try to get the same grade for you rivets. I mostly use 303 or 304 Stainless steel bolsters.

For the 303 bolsters, I use 316L rivets and for 304 I use 308 or 309 rivets. This will help you to “hide” the rivets.

Now you can fit the handle slabs!!